King Jewelers @ Basel World | First Edition

The world’s largest watch and jewelry event returns to Basel, Switzerland, this week. And as was evident on the first day of the 2009 edition, this BaselWorld is shaping up to be the venue for watch-making’s most innovative designers and creative movement makers: world recession or not.

The event highlights the most promising luxury collections out of the more than 2,000 exhibitors. The mood on Wednesday—officially a press-only day—was cautious as exhibitors worried about their retailers’ ability to make the trip to Switzerland, while trend-watchers feared that designers might play it too safe and promote ultra-conservative watch designs this year.

Leading off the day was one of the watch industry’s visionaries, Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot, who never fails to pave new pathways in a tradition-bound industry. Today Biver launched a new web-based system for identifying every single watch that Hublot manufactures, and tracking it through its lifetime—all in the name of fighting counterfeit watch-making. “When I saw the first fake Hublot, I thought wow! We did it! But what started out as satisfaction is now a big worry because fakes are increasing in line with our success,” Biver said.

Biver’s invention, in conjunction with Geneva-based technology firm Wisekey, is a smart card that leaves the factory with each Hublot watch. When both arrive at a retailer, they are activated via web connection. And when the watch is sold, the consumer receives the smart card with his Hublot, and it records every detail of that timepiece, from its guarantee, to its service requirements, to the personal information about the individual who built the watch. Because each card has a unique number that matches its watch, it is proof of authenticity.

At Chopard, plans are already in the works for the family firm’s 150th anniversary in 2010. But this year there is excitement too. In addition to enhancements to the L.U.C collection of complicated men’s watches and Mille Miglia sports timepieces, Chopard is introducing a new Elton John Watch Collection. All of the timepieces will be limited editions, and made of either white or rose gold. Measuring 42 mm, the ladies timepieces will come in a great array of colors for straps and stone treatments, and sales will support the Elton John AIDS Foundation.

Corum is continuing its focus on four main lines within its collection: Admiral’s Cup, Golden Bridge, Artisans and Romulus. And the most exciting developments are destined for its extraordinary Bridge line this year. The Bridge is named for the elongated movement, shaped like a “baguette” or bridge, which is on great display through largely transparent cases. Now, a version will be made for ladies that has the movement positioned horizontally. Additionally, a new model called Ti-Bridge contains the brand’s second in-house caliber that incorporates titanium.

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