Tuesday, March 31, 2009

King Jewelers presents JAQUET DROZ AUTOMATONS - Then and Now

Pierre Jaquet Droz watchmaker, jeweler, inventor and merchant extraordinaire, was a genius who impressed engineers, courtiers and royalty.  His spectacular mechanical automa still work today, such as "The Writer," which actually sets a pen to a paper and writes.

An Excerpt from "Edison's Eve" By Gaby Wood

"Once a month, in a lakeside town of Switzerland, two little boys perform feats of great dexterity.  These prodigies, who look no older than toddlers, are dressed for the occasion in identical velvet jackets and silk pantaloons.  Their faces are doll-like and blank; their bare feet dangle some way off the ground.  The first boy begins by dipping his quill pen in a tiny ink well at the side of his desk.  He shakes it twice, then methodically moves his hand across the paper and starts to trace the letters in his message.  Meanwhile, his twin works on a sketch.  He slowly draws a head in profile, then drops his chin and blows away the dust from his pencil.  While the boys perform their dutiful activities before a small but avid crowd, they are turned to face the wall: their clothes are pulled away and their spines prized open.  Inside each child is a moving piece of golden clockwork."

These children have not aged for over 200 years.  The draughtsman still draws portraits of Louis XV and George III; the writer still communicates to its audience an eerie philosophical joke: "I think," it writes, "therefore I am."  They were first exhibited here, in Neauchatel, by their inventors, Pierre Jaquet Droz and his son Henri-Louis, in 1774.  It was said that people came to see them as if on a pilgrimage from miles away, and ever since then these artificial beings have enchanted, frightened, and perplexed their viewers.

When Pierre Jaquet Droz exhibited his writing automaton is Spain, he was accused of heresy, both the man and the machine were imprisoned for a time by the Spanish Inquisition.  Decades later, Mary Shelley passed through Neuchatel on her six-week-long tour of Europe.  It is thought that she may have seen Jaquet Droz's androids then, two years before she wrote Frankenstein, and it seems fitting that the writer should have been here, watching her inanimate counterpart at work, and dreaming up a monstrous fiction about artificial life.

In 1776, another Jaquet Droz android, a "Musical Lady" that played the harpsichord, was exhibited in London.  As she played the five tunes in her repertoire, her eyes would move coyly from side to side, and her bosom would have slightly as if she were breathing.  The machine was advertised on the poster as "a vestil virgin with a heart of steel."

Jaquet Droz brings the Automaton into the 21st Century with the unveiling of La Machine Ecrire le Temps or 
"Time Writing Machine." This was just introduced at Basel, 2009 and was undoubtedly the hit of the fair.  It is the first machine that is able to capture the ultimate luxury, time.

This breathtaking automaton translates the time told by the hands on a watch into “mechanical digital time.” Simply stated, this “time machine” uses hundreds of ball bearings, belts and cams that, when activated by touch, propel a stylus to write out the present time in hours and minutes, e.g., 10:45. It’s a reversal, or at least a denial, of technology that alludes to the constant passing of time and our fruitless efforts to capture or stop it. It was eight years in the making and is a wonder to view.

 

Thursday, March 26, 2009

King Jewelers @ Basel World | First Edition

The world’s largest watch and jewelry event returns to Basel, Switzerland, this week. And as was evident on the first day of the 2009 edition, this BaselWorld is shaping up to be the venue for watch-making’s most innovative designers and creative movement makers: world recession or not.

The event highlights the most promising luxury collections out of the more than 2,000 exhibitors. The mood on Wednesday—officially a press-only day—was cautious as exhibitors worried about their retailers’ ability to make the trip to Switzerland, while trend-watchers feared that designers might play it too safe and promote ultra-conservative watch designs this year.

Leading off the day was one of the watch industry’s visionaries, Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot, who never fails to pave new pathways in a tradition-bound industry. Today Biver launched a new web-based system for identifying every single watch that Hublot manufactures, and tracking it through its lifetime—all in the name of fighting counterfeit watch-making. “When I saw the first fake Hublot, I thought wow! We did it! But what started out as satisfaction is now a big worry because fakes are increasing in line with our success,” Biver said.

Biver’s invention, in conjunction with Geneva-based technology firm Wisekey, is a smart card that leaves the factory with each Hublot watch. When both arrive at a retailer, they are activated via web connection. And when the watch is sold, the consumer receives the smart card with his Hublot, and it records every detail of that timepiece, from its guarantee, to its service requirements, to the personal information about the individual who built the watch. Because each card has a unique number that matches its watch, it is proof of authenticity.

At Chopard, plans are already in the works for the family firm’s 150th anniversary in 2010. But this year there is excitement too. In addition to enhancements to the L.U.C collection of complicated men’s watches and Mille Miglia sports timepieces, Chopard is introducing a new Elton John Watch Collection. All of the timepieces will be limited editions, and made of either white or rose gold. Measuring 42 mm, the ladies timepieces will come in a great array of colors for straps and stone treatments, and sales will support the Elton John AIDS Foundation.

Corum is continuing its focus on four main lines within its collection: Admiral’s Cup, Golden Bridge, Artisans and Romulus. And the most exciting developments are destined for its extraordinary Bridge line this year. The Bridge is named for the elongated movement, shaped like a “baguette” or bridge, which is on great display through largely transparent cases. Now, a version will be made for ladies that has the movement positioned horizontally. Additionally, a new model called Ti-Bridge contains the brand’s second in-house caliber that incorporates titanium.

www.baselworld.com

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

A King Jewelers Exclusive | Hublot's Jean Claude Biver


A Fabulous Q&A with the Superstar CEO of Hublot - Mr. Jean Claude Biver

King Jewelers : What does the watch industry look like to you by the year 2100?
Jean Claude Biver : The watch will have disappeared as a time piece and it will be replaced 
as a piece of Art, a symbol of tradition and culture. It will be the reign of 
the “Haute Horlogerie”, the reign of fine Swiss watch making Art. 

> KJ : If you could be any animal which one would you be?
JCB : I would choose the cow. Because the cow is pacific, has a great curiosity and a 
strong memory. In addition to all of that, it gives us milk and food. 

> KJ : What musician or band could create the best soundtrack for the Hublot Brand? 
JCB : Carlos Santana and/or Miles Davies. Because both have created new sounds with 
traditional instruments. In that sense they are close to what Hublot has done with 
traditional watch making.


> KJ : What visual artist would you want to create dials for Hublot? 
JCB : Joan Miro, because he was a master of emotion, and colors. 
Color would be one of my favorite features in a watch or dial.

> KJ : What do you say to Hublot haters and how do you approach a fan? 
JCB : Hublot cannot be loved at first sight, as we are the fusion of tradition and the future. 
Therefore I would recommend people to buy first a few traditional watches till they get 
the right feeling about it. Once they have achieved this, they will understand the richness 
and beauty of fusing tradition with vision. But if you don’t understand tradition, 
it is impossible to you to understand fusion.
 
> KJ : If you were the leader of the world for only 1 hour, 
what would be the first thing you would do?
JCB : I would share! Share the richness, share the resources, share the space, 
share the planet and share love!

Friday, March 20, 2009

Available at King Jewelers - Beyonce Wears Rebecca's Rose Gold Melrose Collection


Rebecca Jewelry is by far the hottest new brand for celebrity fashion jewelry.  And why not? It's easy to get your hands on these beautiful, modern pieces with price points between $250 and $1,000.  In the latest edition of LA Confidential magazine, pop icon Beyonce wears Rebecca's Melrose Collection in Rose Gold over Bronze.


The entire line is available at King Jewelers, Aventura and King Jewelers, Nashville.


Tuesday, March 17, 2009

King Jewelers Timepiece Spotlight | Pailloneé – A Lost Art Revived by Jaquet Droz

Pailloneé by Jaquet Droz - Available at King Jewelers
The creation of an enamel dial is one of the most high-risk of the high-arts.

The process itself is an ancient one yet the finished product is one of fine art’s most challenging to produce successfully. There are several types of enamel techniques, including Cloisonné, Flinqué and miniature painting. However, the rarest of the techniques is Pailloneé. This method takes its name from the decorative gold foil motif elements or “paillons” that are laid over an enamel dial base and then immured in further layers of translucent enamel.

At Jaquet Droz, only one person in the world is capable of creating Pailloneé dials that live up to our exacting standards. This person is Anita Porchet.  Ms. Porchet is considered a master in the art of enameling.  Reminiscent of artisans from centuries past, Ms. Porchet works independently out of her home studio located in the countryside between Geneva and Lausanne.

When Jaquet Droz began developing the Pailloneé dial, the goal was to recreate the art form in the same manner as ancient masters. Unfortunately, there were no records from artisans in the 1700s on their enameling techniques.  Therefore, multiple experiments were performed and many months were spent by Jaquet Droz and Ms. Porchet during their attempts to replicate the pailloneé motif.

The choice of a base dial material is important. Gold, not copper, was chosen because of its medium-high melting point, suitable coefficient of expansion, and low modulus of elasticity. These properties are important for the base metal because glass also changes properties during heating and cooling. Ignoring these characteristics would cause cracks to develop inside the enamel. White gold alloy also has oxidation characteristics which allowed for the reproduction of the trademark Jaquet Droz blue color while maintaining the brilliant and translucent properties of glass.

To start the process, the base dial is hand guilloched for a subtle but distinctive pattern under the transparent enamel (flinque). After application of 3 layers of translucent blue enamel, Ms. Porchet then applies the gold pailloneé leaves (about 220 in the Petite Heure Minute dial) and arranges them into the design one leaf at a time by hand.

The 14 K gold Pailloneé leaves used in the Jaquet Droz pailloneé dials were hand produced in the 1700s. These paillons were given to Ms. Porchet from a retired headmaster of an enameling school and are the last examples remaining. Once the individual gold leaf is set on the dial it is permanent. So one mistake and not only is the dial ruined but so is the antique gold leaf.

After the paillons have been applied, Ms. Porchet applies another 6-7 layers of the translucent blue enamel and fires the dial each time. Finally, the dial is carefully polished and the dial is ready to be set into the case. The total working time from start to finish is about 5 working days (50 – 60 hours) per dial. The final result is a work of art unmatched in the world of horology.

King Jewelers Nashville, TN: P.615-724-5464; 4121 Hillsboro Road, Nashville, Tennessee 37215

King Jewelers Aventura, FL: P.305-935-4900; 18265 Biscayne Blvd, Aventura, Florida 33160